I went surfing!
Feb. 23rd, 2003 01:23 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
serafina20I went surfing today. I haven't been surfing in years. I guess that last I really tired was when I was 13, maybe 15 or so. And I hated it. I was afraid of the waves, afraid of the board, too cold, didn't like walking out there, didn't like getting up early. I was miserable.
Then, suddenly, I've been dying to go out again. I miss the ocean. I wanted to feel the waves pushing me, and the sun on me, and the water around me. I kept thinking about it. On my birthday, we went to the pier, and even though I hadn't had it in my mind to surf yet, I felt this longing to be out there with the surfers.
So, finally, I asked my dad if I still had my wetsuit. He said yes, and then yes to the board. My mom asked if I wanted to surf, and I said yes with a big, embarrassed grin. She suggested I wait until it's warmer, but I figured if I did that, I'd stop wanting to go. So my dad took me out today.
The waves sucked. We went to three different beaches. The second beach we tried had waves, but they were way to rough. The third really didn't, but there were baby swells that I played on. Most of the time was spent sitting on the board, watching the ocean, feeling my feet go numb. But I caught a few swells and stood up a couple of time. I always fell off.
The last one I caugh (well, second to last) was stronger than the others. I was further on the board than I had been, and even when I tried to shift my weight back, the nose went under. I was thrown off the board and pulled under. The water was rough and I coudln't get to the surface if I tried. It was everything I've ever dreaded (except for the fact I knew I was in thigh deep water and wouldn't drown).
It was so much fun. Really. Scary, but great. I came up smiling. I tried on one more little wave, and was knocked under again. My dad came over smiling, told me I really need to practice shifting my weight back. I told him about the other wave and said, "It was really scary." Then, after a pause, I shook my head and said, "Oh, who am I kidding. It was fun."
He's going to take me out again. He said when I was younger, I woudln't go out and even try for waves, but now that I will, I'm more fun to be with. I'm just amazed that he even took a teenage girl out; I was horrible back then!
Then, suddenly, I've been dying to go out again. I miss the ocean. I wanted to feel the waves pushing me, and the sun on me, and the water around me. I kept thinking about it. On my birthday, we went to the pier, and even though I hadn't had it in my mind to surf yet, I felt this longing to be out there with the surfers.
So, finally, I asked my dad if I still had my wetsuit. He said yes, and then yes to the board. My mom asked if I wanted to surf, and I said yes with a big, embarrassed grin. She suggested I wait until it's warmer, but I figured if I did that, I'd stop wanting to go. So my dad took me out today.
The waves sucked. We went to three different beaches. The second beach we tried had waves, but they were way to rough. The third really didn't, but there were baby swells that I played on. Most of the time was spent sitting on the board, watching the ocean, feeling my feet go numb. But I caught a few swells and stood up a couple of time. I always fell off.
The last one I caugh (well, second to last) was stronger than the others. I was further on the board than I had been, and even when I tried to shift my weight back, the nose went under. I was thrown off the board and pulled under. The water was rough and I coudln't get to the surface if I tried. It was everything I've ever dreaded (except for the fact I knew I was in thigh deep water and wouldn't drown).
It was so much fun. Really. Scary, but great. I came up smiling. I tried on one more little wave, and was knocked under again. My dad came over smiling, told me I really need to practice shifting my weight back. I told him about the other wave and said, "It was really scary." Then, after a pause, I shook my head and said, "Oh, who am I kidding. It was fun."
He's going to take me out again. He said when I was younger, I woudln't go out and even try for waves, but now that I will, I'm more fun to be with. I'm just amazed that he even took a teenage girl out; I was horrible back then!
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brave soul
Date: 2003-02-24 11:50 am (UTC)Re: brave soul
Date: 2003-02-25 02:57 pm (UTC)Oooooh
Date: 2003-02-25 01:10 am (UTC)That sounds like a blast. I'm extremely jealous.
Re: Oooooh
Date: 2003-02-25 09:23 am (UTC)Re: Oooooh
Date: 2003-02-28 12:25 am (UTC)er... well now that you mention it...
but that's not the only reason!
Re: Oooooh
Date: 2003-02-25 03:13 pm (UTC)Re: Oooooh
Date: 2003-02-28 12:26 am (UTC)